57 cosmetic allergens

BIOPHARMA

Regulations provide for an update to the labelling of cosmetic products for 87 allergens: our Phytocontrol experts have developed a new, more precise method to support you and enable you to anticipate this new regulation

What is a cosmetic allergen?

Most cosmetic products – perfumes, essential oils and derived products – contain fragrances or scented compounds holding substances foreign to our immune system and likely to cause allergic reactions on contact with the skin. Often harmless, allergen assays for cosmetic products help detect and quantify substances that may pose an allergy risk to the consumer. Manufacturers of cosmetic products are therefore required to indicate the presence of allergens on the label.

Anticipate the application of this new regulation thanks to our new analytical method

Our scientific experts have developed an analytical method using gas chromatography combined with a mass spectrometry detector (GC-MS) to identify and guarantee the assay of 57 allergenic substances. This analytical method was developed based on the IFRA method to ensure reliability, precision and responsiveness in delivering results.
Phytocontrol was already the 1st COFRAC-accredited laboratory for the assay of the 26 allergens in cosmetic products, in France. Today, we offer you a first-class analytical service for the search of allergens in your finished cosmetic products (perfumes, essential oils, creams, shower gel, soap, liniment, make-up remover, etc.), your plant extracts and your raw materials, not just perfumery products.

Cosmetic allergens, what regulation?

Currently, 26 allergens are recognised in the cosmetics regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (Lyral) and Butylphenyl methylpropional (Lilial) were banned on 23 August 2021 and 1 March 2022 respectively. The other 24 must be labelled when their concentration exceeds 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

Following SCCS opinion No. 1459/11, this list is set to expand to around 87 allergens; this proposal is to be included in an amendment to the regulation during 2022. Of these, 57 are substances and 30 are complex natural mixtures, such as plant extracts. Only substances can be quantified using current techniques.

2 substances: Atranol and Chloratranol have also been banned, due to the significant number of allergy cases they caused.